View from Green Mountain

Having not stopped at Ascension on our previous crossing on Finesse, we have decided that this time around we will. It is an uncomplicated downwind sail of about 4 and a half days from St Helena, the trades are kind and consistent and we settle into an easy routine of 3 and a half hour night watches and easy going day times, interchanging between spinnaker up and twin headsails depending on the strength of the wind. I am grateful to have Kate along, she is young and energetic and Doug can rely on her to be his first mate when it comes to sail changes.  I of course am galley slave.  Only on our last day do the trades die down and we decide to put out the rod in addition to the two handlines which have fed us on passage. We are rewarded with a big wahoo which requires that the entire freezer be repacked to fit in ten meals of fish.  A further five meals go into the fridge, some of which I pickle using Glee + 2’s delicious recipe from Chagos days, and the rest we eat for lunches and suppers.

Dinner and some.

We are escorted in by shoals of black fish ‘Durgeons’, and are enthralled by their sheer numbers. Ascension is not a cruisers paradise in terms of anchorage, getting ashore, maintenance and provisioning.  Scott and Nikki on The Beach House have given us the run down by email, but in practice it translates into a much more adventurous  undertaking. We arrive on a beautiful calm afternoon and wonder what the fuss is about, the bay is flat and the water crystal.  But overnight a northerly swell builds and by the next morning we have a better understanding of the hype surrounding ‘getting ashore on Ascension’.  One dinghys in towards the pier head, a large concrete promontory with a steep stairway cut into it and a landing platform at the base with several thick knotted ropes hanging like nooses off an overhead bar.  There is a wooden fishing boat about 30 meters before the pier head which is tied bow to it, and stern to a series of other boats and mooring buoys. To this one ties ones dinghy, and then transfers crew and paraphernalia to the fishing boat.  Once aboard one smiles confidently up at the gathering spectators before pulling the fishing boat in to the landing platform using its mooring line.  Sounds simple enough, but factor in a huge swell and an uncooperative fishing boat, protruding rocks at the base of the pier head, and a 20 knot wind.  Once at the landing platform the boat lurches and surges up to two meters and more against the concrete, smashing the wooden bow and protective car tyre around it, it mounts the platform and then gets dragged back off it, at some stage one has to position oneself on this angry bow, grab a knotted noose and launch oneself onto the swirling platform with a measure of calm and dignity, and clamber up the staircase before being washed off again.  Once everyone is safely ashore, the boat with ones dinghy attached is released and pulled back off shore using a block and pulley system.  Now try to do this all with four 25 litre water containers, laptops, provisions etc!  Islanders and visitors alike love to watch this debacle.

Thwarting our Nemesis.

Georgetown is a neat but uninspiring village set among volcanic gravel with a few indigenous trees spotted here and there. The heat radiates off all this black tar-like gravel but is cooled by the persistent trade winds. The local people are mostly from St. Helena on contract here as the pay is better and are generally accommodating.  There is a shop at which most things can be bought at a price, (save for fresh veggies), a post office and a bank.  Internet access can be bought at the only hotel, the Obsidian.  Ascension is a ‘closed’ island, visitors unwelcome, but in fact everyone is remarkably friendly, from the chief of police who doubles as immigration officer, to the shop owners. As the island is a military base for the Americans, and a hub for several communication and radio companies, there are cordoned off areas of multi-million dollar high tech equipment and satellite dish type things, and rules do apply.  We have used the opportunity here to catch up on blogging whilst sitting in the shade on the verandah of the hotel.

Weird contraptions

Did I mention about all the fish we have been eating?  Well it turns out this is not all a good thing.  A few mornings ago Doug complained of a sore big toe, red and swollen and not a pretty sight. It got progressively worse until we had to painstakingly hobble our way to the hospital. There we were greeted by a South African doctor who diagnosed gout. Doug was disgusted that he had an old man’s condition, especially when we have had an alcohol free boat for months now! A jab in the bum and some Voltaren and the gout is on the mend.  Hey, Tim Noakes, so what’s with the protein rich diet and cutting out carbs – protein rich diet amongst other things, is responsible for gout.

Following on this bad note, let me tell you about yacht ‘Moonshine’. They arrived a couple of days after us, abandoned their boat to this unpredictable anchorage within hours of their arrival, headed straight to the Saints Pub, stopping only to intercepting some unknown American service men on the way, whom they casually asked to watch their boat. They settled into the Saints Club at about lunch time and proceeded to provide the Islanders with enough gossip to last them decades. Some mildy inappropriate PDA (Public Displays of Affection) culminating open air sex, followed by the mugging of a member of the US airforce… on the restricted Military Airbase, stealing his cell, ipad and wallet. They went on to harass the hotel staff at 01:00am for a room which they trashed. The next morning during our breakfast we watched as Rod, the chief of police boarded this yacht, revoked their visas and kicked them off the island, the first time in 23 years. Not a cool refection for yachties especially as one of them was South African but thankfully the stolen items were returned.

Hiring a car was well worth it, especially the trip up the 856 metre Green Mountain (aptly named) and a two hour hike once up there. The drive up is hectic with the tightest of tight hairpin bends, and the contrast from volcanic rocks to lush green tropical vegetation makes it incredibly scenic.

We were told that we can help ourselves to any bananas but to pull down the whole tree as they were taking over as it is – we were happy to oblige.

Kate and I have continually challenged the nipping ‘Durgoens’ (Trigger fish) by swimming with them daily. Think Pied Piper of Hamlin, Kate gets into the water the blighters swarm behind in their multitudes, if she dives down, so do they. Ascension is the 2^nd largest nesting ground for the green turtles, with every beach resembling a snow slope of moguls, where females have pulled themselves up to lay their eggs and thousands of hatchlings each year. Unfortunately only a small portion of these make it and the beaches are scatted with biltong baby turtles and egg shells.

The trigger fish in their hordes

The beaches with all the turtle nests.

Yesterday we took the dinghy up to English Bay and checked out the wreck and surrounding reef, so many tropical fish and morays, a stone fish and huge jack. Because Ascension is so inaccessible, the marine life and fishing is of the best in the world and there are no restrictions at all. We have been to some remarkable snorkeling sites and I don’t believe there is clearer water anywhere in the world.

Our stay on Ascension ended with some fun and festivities on the US base for the 4^th of July celebrations. A small town affair, with minimal talent lead to an entertaining beauty pageant and endless line dancing. Doug dominated the pool table with JP, one of the SA crew members delivering a Moorings cat, their winning streak even follow odd US rules was unfaltering. Katie reveled in company outside of her parents, equally so for the US recruits whose employment perks don’t usually include a exuberant blonde girl.

Long Beach, Ascension

The local friendly donkeys that potter around generally getting in the way and nevertheless well loved.

Have a look at the Gallery for more pics.

– Val

Ascension
(Durgeons, Military Transport Jets, Turtles)
Bargain: Joining in the 4^th of July celebrations on the US base.
Irritation/Quirk: American, British and French adapters needed depending on where you are on the island.
Cost of a coke: 75p