Brazil and the Amazon

Another 19 days to Salvador, Brazil but with the trade winds to help us – although still no autohelm as the agent had sent the incorrect part with Tao. So began again the routine of life at sea.

The Brazilian coast is lined with cities, huge and somewhat inaccessible, both from a language point of view as well as transport logistics. After exploring Bahia, Salvador and the surrounding bay (which found us a payphone that accepted the minimum pay and thereafter unlimited time to SA!!) we headed north, stopping off at various cities, until arriving in Belem, at the mouth of the Amazon. We were once again reunited with Windora, Wanderlust and various other cruising boats we had met along the way. Specifically a yacht called Carlin with Greg, Carol and their son BJ aboard, who we had re-connected with after first meeting in Madagascar some years previously. After some fun evenings together it was agreed that the intrepid travelers were all up to an amazon adventure. Off we set, in drips and drabs, a little daunted by the grave warnings of unpredictable currents, winds, ever changing sandbanks, uncharted waters and whole trees to negotiate. The intricate maze of tributaries, sub-tributaries and islands, with tidal affects from seaward and from the sheer volume of water from the amazon in the opposite direction – it does not make for the easiest cruising.

Whole trees hiding underwater.

The inhabited banks of the Amazon river.

But the magic of the Amazon, once the city has been left behind, is the marvel of surroundings, the solitude, the simplicity of the stilted villages, the flocks of multi-coloured parrots over head, the enormous power of this ever changing river and the rain forests towering on either side of us.

On our first day, we dropped anchor at lunch time in a secluded tributary, and were surprised when Carlin rounded the bend in the river. They rafted up against us and shared our lunch. Due to the extreme current, we tied a rope with floating fenders from the sterns of both boats to form a cordoned off swimming area and wallowed in the heat. No, no, apparently piranhas are only found on the side of the river, out of the current… but despite our jocular banter about being eaten, and our pineapple cider induced bravado, when Doug yelled ‘PIRANHAS”, we knew by his actions and tone, that this was no joke!

Piranhas hunt in groups, at first taking moon shaped slices in a certain area to expose flesh before the feeding frenzy begins. Dad insisted on catching some so that he could eat them as they had tried to eat him.

We ended up about 800 miles up the Amazon, at the enormous city of Santarem at the confluence of the crystal clear Tapajos River and the muddy Amazon. In the Tapajos, we reveled in the luxury of fresh clean water, filled the water tanks, shopped for fresh produce and enjoyed the pure white sandy beaches and tried to spot the Pink Amazon River Dolphins. We also met some influential people in the Santarem community and had some all night parties ashore.

A Pink Amazon River Dolphin. Very shy creatures who are linked to a myth that at full moon they turn into beautiful woman and lure men into the river to become dolphins themselves.

Our visas expired and our exuberance rapidly became anxiety when we approached by the port captain and threatened with being detained. He eventually softened a little and gave us 7 days to clear out at Macapa back at the mouth of the river!

The next stop was the notorious island of Ihle da Salut, catapulted to fame following the publishing of ‘Papillon’, a daunting incarceration judging by the conditions and shark infested waters. We saw armies of ants carrying leaves twice their size and had damper twists under the dripping coconut palms. We made a trip to the main land to get water, treat ourselves to a coke and visit the French Space Station (ARIANE), which was fascinating. Sadly we missed a satellite launch by one day. We had been cruising now for 9 months and we decided to head to Tobago for Christmas.

– Val